• 12 lbs. light malt extract
• 1 lb. Domestic Special Pale malt
• 1 lb. Munich malt
• 1 lb. Light Crystal malt
• 1 oz. Columbus or Summit hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Centennial hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Fuggles or Willamette hops (finishing)
• 1 oz. Cascades (dry hop after after primary fermentation)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• 1 cup Turbinado or light brown sugar (end of boil)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 yeast, Liquid - Wyeast #1056, #1272 or White Labs California or California V Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 1/2 cup Turbinado or light brown sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160º - 170º and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168º) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Columbus or Summit) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Centennial) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1 oz. Fuggles or Willamettes) and immediately turn off heat
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.  For beers of this strength, we recommend that you make a yeast starter or use two pouches/vials.  If you are using dried yeast, we suggest you first rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90º - 100ºF) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60º (Add .001 for every 7º above 60ºF).
6. If the temperature is less than 80º, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110º will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 65º - 75ºF.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2-4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.020 or less. Crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. Cascades) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2-3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION:  Single Stage - We do not recommend single stage fermentation for a beer of this strength.  If you must ferment using single stage fermentation, then allow wort to ferment for 6 days.  Then, crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. Cascades) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in.  Allow to ferment and settle 4 more days.  Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling, proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.  We do recommend that you reduce your priming sugar if using this method.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.022 (or less). If it is more than 1.027, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six months and lasts over a year.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 18 lbs. Domestic Special Pale malt
• 1 lb. Munich malt
• 1 lb. Light Crystal malt
• 1 oz. Columbus or Summit hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Centennial hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Willamette hops (finishing)
• 1 oz. Cascades (dry hop after after primary fermentation)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• 1 cup Turbinado or light brown sugar (end of boil)
• 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 yeast (Wyeast #1056, #1272 or White Labs California or Cal V)
• 1/2 cup Turbinado or light brown sugar (priming)

• 7 lbs. amber malt extract
• 1 lb. Dark Munich malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 10 oz. chocolate malt
• 1/4 lb. Special "B" malt
• 3/4 oz. Centennial or Chinook hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood hops (finishing)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California, California V Ale yeast or Wyeast #1056, #1272
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (3/4 oz. Centennial or Chinook) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Mt. Hood) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Mt. Hood) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. If using dried yeast, rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°å, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.014 (or less). If it is more than 1.018, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing.  Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.  Cap and seal.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling further. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months. Note that longer aging may result in a smoother taste.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 1/2 lbs. Domestic Two-Row malt
• 1 lb. Dark Munich malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 10 oz. chocolate malt
• 1/4 lb. Special "B" malt
• 3/4 oz. Centennial or Chinook hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood hops (finishing)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California, California V Ale yeast or Wyeast #1056, #1272
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

DEFALCO'S SWEET (CREAM) STOUT RECIPE

• 6 lbs. dark malt extract
• 1 lb. British pale ale malt
• 1/2 lb. roast unmalted barley
• 1/4 lb. Chocolate Malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. lactose (add to end of boil)
• 1/2 oz. Target, Wye Challenger or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes or Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes or Fuggles hops (finishing)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs English, British or Irish Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1084, #1968
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food - for tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn (or brown) sugar

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160º - 170º and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168º) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1/2 oz. Target, Wye Challenger, or Northdown) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Willamettes or Fuggles) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Willamettes or Fuggles) and immediately turn off heat.  Add the 1/2 lb. lactose and stir thoroughly.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.  If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90º- 100ºF) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. 
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60º (Add.001 for every 7º above 60ºF).
6. If the temperature is less than 80º, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110º will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60º - 75ºF.
8. FERMENTATION:  Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION:  Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days.  Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.014. If it is more than 1.019, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling further. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.  Note that longer aging may result in a smoother taste.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 1/2 lbs. British Two-Row malt
• 1/2 lb. roast unmalted barley
• 1/4 lb. Chocolate Malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. lactose (add to end of boil)
• 1/2 oz. Target, Wye Challenger or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes or Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes or Fuggles hops (finishing)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs English, British or Irish Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1084, #1968
• 3/4 cup corn (or brown) sugar

• 8 lbs. amber malt extract
• 1 lb. British pale ale malt (e.g. Golden Promise or Maris Otter)
• 1/2 lb. British cara-pils malt
• 1 lb. British medium crystal malt
• 2 oz. roast barley
• 3/4 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles hops (finishing)
• 1 lb. turbinado or brown sugar (end of boil) - not included in recipe
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs Edinburgh or Wyeast #1728)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 2/3 cup brown sugar (priming) - not included in recipe

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (3/4 oz. Target or Northdown) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Fuggles) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Fuggles) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If you are using dried yeast, we suggest you first rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110o will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.020 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.015 (or less). If it is more than 1.019, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about eight weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 12 lb. British pale ale malt (e.g. Golden Promise or Maris Otter)
• 1/2 lb. British dark crystal malt
• 1 lb. British medium crystal malt
• 2 oz. roast barley
• 3/4 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles hops (finishing)
• 1 lb. turbinado or brown sugar (end of boil)- not included in recipe
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs Edinburgh or Wyeast #1728)
• 2/3 cup brown sugar (priming) - not included in recipe

• 6 lbs. dark malt extract
• 1 lb. oatmeal
• 1 lb. Six-row pale malt
• 1/2 lb. roast unmalted barley
• 1/4 lb. Chocolate Malt
• 1/2 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1 oz. Target, Wye Challenger, or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes hops (finishing)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or 2 pkgs. Coopers ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1084 or White Labs English, British or Irish Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food - for tap water)
• 3/4 cup brown (or corn) sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160º-170º and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168º) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Target, Wye Challenger or Northdown) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Willamettes) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Willamettes) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20-30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.  If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90º-100ºF) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. 
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60º (Add.001 for every 7º above 60ºF).
6. If the temperature is less than 80º, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110º will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60º - 75ºF.
8. FERMENTATION:  Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION:  Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days.  Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.013 (or less). If it is more than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.  Note that longer aging may result in a smoother taste.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 lbs. British Two-Row malt
• 1 lb. oatmeal
• 1/2 lb. roast unmalted barley
• 1/4 lb. Chocolate Malt
• 1/2 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1 oz. Target, Wye Challenger, or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes hops (finishing)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or 2 pkgs. Coopers ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1084 or White Labs English, British or Irish Ale Yeast
• 3/4 cup brown (or corn) sugar (priming)

DEFALCO'S TEXAS IMPERIAL BLACK IPA RECIPE

• 8 1/2 lbs. dark malt extract
• 1 1/2 lbs. Two-Row Pale malt
• 1/4 lb. Carafa II malt
• 1 lb. Dark Crystal malt
• 1 oz. Warrior hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Simcoe hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1 oz. Citra hops (dry hop in fermenter)
• 1 lb. turbinado sugar (end of boil)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid -  White Labs California V, California Ale, Dry English or Wyeast #1272, #1056
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food - if using tap water)
• 2/3 cup turbinado sugar priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160º-170º and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168º) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Warrior) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Simcoe) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1 oz. Willamettes) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90º-100ºF) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.   For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60º (Add.001 for every 7º above 60ºF).
6. If the temperature is less than 80º, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110º will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60º - 75ºF.
8. FERMENTATION:  Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. Citra) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION:  Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days.  Then, crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. Citra) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in.  Allow to ferment and settle 3 more days.  Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.016 (or less). If it is more than 1.019, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 14 lbs. Two-Row Pale Ale malt
• 1 lb. British Dark Crystal malt
• 1/4 lb. Carafa II malt
• 1 oz. Warrior hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Simcoe hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1 oz. Citra hops (dry hop in fermenter)
• 1 lb. turbinado sugar (end of boil)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid -  White Labs California V, California Ale, Dry English or Wyeast #1272, #1056
• 2/3 cup turbinado sugar priming)

• 8 1/2 lbs. amber malt extract
• 1 1/2 lb. domestic special pale malt
• 1 lb. dark crystal malt
• 1/4 lb. Biscuit malt
• 1/4 lb. chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Warrior hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Simcoe hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or Nottingham ale yeast
• Liquid - WhiteLabs California or California V or Wyeast #1056, #1272)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Warrior) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Simcoe) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Cascades) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If you are using dried yeast, we suggest you first rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor  (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower,it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2-4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.020 or less. Crush up the dry hop pellets (1/2 oz. Cascades) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2-3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the dry hop pellets (1/2 oz. Cascades) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 3 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.017 (or less). If it is more than 1.021, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about eight weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 13 1/2 lb. domestic special pale malt
• 1 lb. dark crystal malt
• 1/4 lb. Biscuit malt
• 1/4 lb. chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Warrior hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Simcoe hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or Nottingham ale yeast
• Liquid - WhiteLabs California or California V or Wyeast #1056, #1272)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 6 lbs. amber malt extract
• 1 lb. British brown malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 10 oz. chocolate malt
• 1/4 lb. Special "B" malt
• 3/4 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings hops (finishing)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs British, English, Burton Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1028, #1968
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 2/3 cup brown sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (3/4 oz. Target or Northdown) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Goldings) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Goldings) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. If using dried yeast, rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 63° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.012 or less. If it is more than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.  Cap and seal.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling further. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months. Note that longer aging may result in a smoother taste.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 8 1/2 lbs. British Two-Row malt
• 1 lb. British Brown malt
• 1 1/2 lb. medium crystal malt
• 10 oz. chocolate malt
• 1/4 lb. Special "B" malt 3/4 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings hops (finishing)
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs British, English, Burton Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1028, #1968
• 2/3 cup brown sugar (priming)

• 7 lbs. amber malt extract
• 2 oz. Chocolate malt
• 1/2 lb. Belgian Special B malt
• 1 1/2 lbs. Munich malt
• 1 lb. Belgian Cara-Munich malt
• 1 oz. Perle or Glacier hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty hops (finishing)
• 1/2 tsp. Calcium Chloride water salts
• Yeast:  Dried -1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1968, #1272 or White Labs English or California V Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food - for tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Perle or Glacier) and boil 40 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Cascades) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Liberty or Mt. Hood) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.

- Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
1. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.014 (or less). If it is more than 1.018 higher than our predicted F.G., do not bottle until you call us!
2. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
3. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. This is a fast maturing beer, reaching peak flavor in 3 - 4 weeks, although it may become smoother with additional aging.
4. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 10 lbs. Domestic Special Pale
• 1 1/2 lbs. Munich malt
• 1/2 lb. Belgian Special B malt
• 1 lb. Belgian Cara-Munich malt
• 2 oz. Chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Perle or Glacier hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Columbus hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty hops (finishing)
• 1/2 tsp. Calcium Chloride water salts
• Yeast:  Dried -1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1968, #1272 or White Labs English or California V Ale Yeast
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)