• 6 lbs. light malt extract
• 1 lb. Two Row Malt
• 1/2 lb. British Medium Crystal
• 1/2 oz. Simcoe hops (Bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Simcoe Hops (Flavoring)
• 1 oz. Mosaic Hops (Finishing)
• 1 oz. Centennial hops (dry hop)
• Yeast: White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056
• or 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or BRY-97 Dried Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1/2 oz. Simcoe) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Simcoe) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1 oz. Mosaic) and immediately turn off heat.

3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.

4. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate it by sprinkling into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.

5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7°above 60°F).

6. If the temperature is less than 80° (65 - 70° is better!), pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.

7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75° F.

8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.018 or less. Crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. Centennial) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. Centennial) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 3 - 5 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to bottling.

9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.012 (or less). If it is more than 1.016, do not bottle until you call us!

10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.

11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about four  to six weeks and lasts several months.

• 9 lbs. Two-Row Pale malt
• 1/2 lb. British Medium Crystal
• 1/2 oz. Simcoe hops (Bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Simcoe Hops (Flavoring)
• 1 oz. Mosaic Hops (Finishing)
• 1 oz. Centennial hops (dry hop)
• Yeast: White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056
• or 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or BRY-97 Dried Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)
  

DEFALCO'S TEXAS RANGER IPA (INDIA PALE ALE) RECIPE

• 7 lbs. Light malt extract
• 1 lb. Light Munich Malt
• 1 1/2 lbs. Domestic Two Row Pale Malt
• 1/2 lb. British Light Crystal Malt
• 1/4 lb. Cara-Stan Malt
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Centennial hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1 oz. Simcoe hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 ale yeast (or White Labs California Ale or California V Ale or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast or #1272 American Ale II)
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Do NOT squeeze the bag!  You'll wring out undesirable flavors in addition to whatever you were hoping to get.  Bring the grain tea to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Columbus) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Centennial) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1 oz. Cascades) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of luke- warm (90°-100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60°F).  Your Original Gravity (O.G.) should be about 1.061, corrected for temperature.
6. If the temperature is less than 80° (70° is better!), pour the yeast into the wort.  If using tap water, you may also want to add the package of Bru-Vigor, as well. Now, place the lid on the fermenter and snap it into place. Fill your airlock halfway full of water and carefully insert it into the rubber grommet on the lid.  Please note that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Crush up the Simcoe hop pellets into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter, then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the Simcoe hop pellets into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 4 - 7 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.015 (or less). If it is more than 1.019, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 11 1/2 lbs. Domestic Two Row Malt
• 1 lb. Light Munich Malt
• 1/2 lb. British Light Crystal Malt
• 1/4 lb. Cara-Stan Malt
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Centennial hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1 oz. Simcoe hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 ale yeast (or White Labs California Ale or California V Ale or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast or #1272 American Ale II)
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

OLE YELLER ROSE IPA

• 7½ lbs. Light malt extract
• 3 lbs. German or Belgian Pilsner Malt
• 1 oz. Mosaic hops (bittering)
• ¾ oz. Mosaic hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Mosaic hops (finishing)
• 1¼ oz. Mosaic hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 ale yeast (or White Labs California Ale or California V Ale or Wyeast #1056
• American Ale Yeast or #1272 American Ale II)
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)
  
  

• 14 lbs. Belgian Pilsner Malt
• 1 oz. Mosaic hops (bittering)
• ¾ oz. Mosaic hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Mosaic hops (finishing)
• 1¼ oz. Mosaic hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 ale yeast (or White Labs California Ale or California V Ale or Wyeast #1056
• American Ale Yeast or #1272 American Ale II)
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 10 lbs. amber malt extract
• 1 1/4 lbs. British Pale Ale malt (Golden Promise or Maris Otter)
• 1/2 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 1 lb. Medium Crystal malt
• 2 oz. Roast barley
• 1 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. U.K. Fuggles or Willamettes hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. U.K. Fuggles or Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1 lb. turbinado sugar (end of boil)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs Edinburgh or English Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1728 Scottish or #1968 ESB Yeast
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food if using tap water)
• 2/3 cup turbinado sugar priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168o) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Target or Northdown) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. U.K. Fuggles or Willamettes) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. U.K. Fuggles or Willamettes) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7°above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75° F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.025 or less. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.020 (or less). If it is more than 1.024, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about two months  and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 14 lbs. Two-Row Pale malt
• 1/2 lb.British Dark Crystal malt
• 1 lb. British Medium Crystal malt
• 2 oz. Roast barley
• 1 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. U.K. Fuggles or Willamettes hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. U.K. Fuggles or Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1 lb. turbinado sugar (end of boil)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs Edinburgh or English Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1728 Scottish or #1968 ESB Yeast
• 2/3 cup turbinado sugar (priming)

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 lbs. light malt extract
• 3 lbs. Brewery Grade Corn Syrup
• 2 lbs. Domestic Two Row Malt
• 1/4 lb. German Light Crystal
• 1 oz. Glacier hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Tettnanger hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. U.S.Tettnanger hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or Nottingham Ale Yeast or White Labs WLP080 Cream Ale, WLP001 California Ale  or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

PROCEDURE:

Note: If you are using Wyeast liquid yeast, prepare the yeast 24 hours prior to brewing! Activate the yeast by “smacking” it to rupture the internal pouch, thereby mixing its contents with the other con- tents in the pouch. Allow the yeast to remain at room temperature to swell. Check the packaging date on the pouch. If it has been over two months since it was packaged, allow an extra day for the pouch to swell up. If you are using White Labs Pitchable Yeast, simply remove from refrigerator and allow to warm up to room temperature during the brew session.

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz.Glacier) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Tettnanger) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (

INGREDIENTS:

• 5 lbs. light malt extract
• 1 lb. domestic pale (pale ale) malt
• 2 lbs. Vienna malt
• 1/2 oz. Sterling hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Halleratuer Saphir hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Hallertauer Saphir hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried -1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California or German Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056, #1007
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

PROCEDURE:
Note: If you are using Wyeast liquid yeast, prepare the yeast 24 hours prior to brewing! Activate the yeast by “smacking” it to rupture the internal pouch, thereby mixing its contents with the other con- tents in the pouch. Allow the yeast to remain at room temperature to swell. Check the packaging date on the pouch. If it has been over two months since it was packaged, allow an extra day for the pouch to swell up. If you are using White Labs Pitchable Yeast, simply remove from refrigerator and allow to warm up to room temperature during the brew session.

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1/2 oz. Sterling) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Hallertauer Saphir) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Hallertauer Saphir) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90°-100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.018 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about1.013 (or less). If it is more than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

ALL-GRAIN RECIPE

• 8 1/2 lbs. domestic two row pale malt
• 2 lbs. Vienna malt
• 1/2 oz. Sterling hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Halleratuer Saphir hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Hallertauer Saphir hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried -1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California or German Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056, #1007
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

Mashing Procedure: Heat 3 gallons of water to 168°, mix in water salts and stir thoroughly, now dough your crushed grain in, making sure to stir constantly to avoid dry pockets of grain. Once grain is thoroughly mixed in, cover. Check temperature after approximately five minutes, it should be about 153°, plus or minus 4°. If it is noticeably colder or hotter, add boiling water or ice cubes and stir to mix in to adjust temperature. Stir mash every 10 - 15 minutes. After an hour of mashing, recirculate wort back through grain bed until it begin to flow relatively clear, not a lot of cloudiness. Now you may run this clear wort off into your kettle while you slowly sparge the grain with hot water at about 168°. Try to collect a total of at least 6 1/2 - 7 gallons. Bring to a boil for about 10 minutes, then begin adding hops as outlined above. Please note that when using all grain recipes, your original and final gravities may vary considerably from our predicted readings.

• 9 lbs. light malt extract
• 3 lbs. Domestic Special Pale Malt
• 1 lb. British Cara-Stan Crystal
• 2 oz. Chocolate Malt
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Centennial hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (dry hop)
• Yeast: Safale US-05 or BRY-97 Ale or White Labs WLP001 California Ale, WLP051 California V Ale Yeast  or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Do NOT squeeze the bag!  You'll wring out undesirable flavors in addition to whatever you were hoping to get.  Bring the grain tea to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Columbus) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Centennial) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1 oz. Cascades) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of luke- warm (90°-100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60°F).  Your Original Gravity (O.G.) should be about 1.080, corrected for temperature.
6. If the temperature is less than 80° (70° is better!), pour the yeast into the wort.  If using tap water, you may also want to add the package of Bru-Vigor, as well. Now, place the lid on the fermenter and snap it into place. Fill your airlock halfway full of water and carefully insert it into the rubber grommet on the lid.  Please note that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.025 or less. Crush up the Cascades dry hop pellets into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter, then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the Cascades dry hop pellets into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 4 - 7 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.020 (or less). If it is more than 1.024, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 16 lbs. Domestic Pale Ale Malt
• 1 lb. British Cara-Stan Crystal
• 2 oz. Chocolate Malt
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Centennial hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (dry hop)
• Yeast: Safale US-05 or BRY-97 Ale or White Labs WLP001 California Ale, WLP051 California V Ale Yeast  or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 8 lbs. Light malt extract
• 2 lbs. Domestic Pale Ale Malt
• 6 oz. British Cara-Stan
• 6 oz. British Cara-Pils
• 2 cups Corn Sugar (add to end of boil)
• 3 1/4 oz. Columbus hops (bittering #1 - 45 min)
• 3/4 oz. Columbus hops (bittering #2 - 15 min)
• 1 oz. Simcoe (flavoring #3 - 30 min)
• 1 oz. Centennial or similar hops (finishing #4)
• 2 oz. Simcoe (finishing #4)
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (dry hop #5)*
• 1 oz. Centennial or similar hops (dry hop #5)*
• 1 oz. Simcoe hops (dry hop #5)*
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or Nottingham Ale Yeast (or White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast)
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168o) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add approximately half of the malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (3 1/4 oz. Columbus) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the second bittering hop addition (3/4 oz. Columbus) and boil another 15 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Simcoe) and boil an additional 15 minutes.  Add the remaining malt extract and boil an additional 15 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (2 oz. Simcoe & 1 oz. Centennial) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of luke- warm (90o-100oF) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for tempera- tures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7°above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75° F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.018 or less. Crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. each of Columbus, Centennial, & Simcoe!) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 5 days. Then, crush up the dry hop pellets(1 oz. each of Columbus, Centennial, & Simcoe!)into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 5 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step#9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.014 (or less). If it is more than 1.018, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 13 lbs. Domestic Two-Row Pale Malt
• 6 oz. British Cara-Stan
• 6 oz. British Cara-Pils
• 2 cups Corn Sugar (add to end of boil)
• 3 1/4 oz. Columbus hops (bittering #1 - 45 min)
• 3/4 oz. Columbus hops (bittering #2 - 15 min)
• 1 oz. Simcoe (flavoring #3 - 30 min)
• 1 oz. Centennial or similar hops (finishing #4)
• 2 oz. Simcoe (finishing #4)
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (dry hop #5)*
• 1 oz. Centennial or similar hops (dry hop #5)*
• 1 oz. Simcoe hops (dry hop #5)*
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or Nottingham Ale Yeast (or White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast)
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

DEFALCO'S CLETUS SPUCKLER TOOTHLESS RyePA RECIPE

• 7 lbs. Light malt extract
• 1 1/2 lbs. Two Row Malt
• 3/4 lb. German Rye Malt
• 3/4 lb. British Medium Crystal
• 1 1/2 oz. Chocolate Malt
• 3/4 oz. Warrior hops (bittering)
• 3/4 oz. Chinook Hops (Flavoring - last 15 min.)
• 1/4 oz. Magnum Hops (Finishing - last 5 minutes)
• Dry Hop: 1 oz. Chinook + ½ oz. Citra + ½ oz. Magnum
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or BRY-97 Ale Yeast or White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Do NOT squeeze the bag!  You'll wring out undesirable flavors in addition to whatever you were hoping to get.  Bring the grain tea to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (3/4 oz. Warrior) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (3/4 oz. Chinook) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/4 oz. Magnum) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of luke- warm (90°-100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60°F).  Your Original Gravity (O.G.) should be about 1.061, corrected for temperature
6. If the temperature is less than 80° (70° is better!), pour the yeast into the wort.  If using tap water, you may also want to add the package of Bru-Vigor, as well. Now, place the lid on the fermenter and snap it into place. Fill your airlock halfway full of water and carefully insert it into the rubber grommet on the lid.  Please note that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. Chinook + ½ oz. Citra + ½ oz. Magnum) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter, then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the dry hop pellets (1 oz. Chinook + ½ oz. Citra + ½ oz. Magnum) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 4 - 7 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.015 (or less). If it is more than 1.019, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 11 1/2 lbs. Domestic Two Row Malt
• 3/4 lb. German Rye Malt
• 3/4 lb. British Medium Crystal
• 1 1/2 oz. Chocolate Malt
• 3/4 oz. Warrior hops (bittering)
• 3/4 oz. Chinook Hops (Flavoring - last 15 min.)
• 1/4 oz. Magnum Hops (Finishing - last 5 minutes)
• Dry Hop: 1 oz. Chinook + ½ oz. Citra + ½ oz. Magnum
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or BRY-97 Ale Yeast or White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056 American Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

DEFALCO'S BLACK CRACK IMPERIAL STOUT RECIPE