• 7 lbs. light malt extract
• 1 1/2 lb. pale malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. dark crystal malt
• 1 oz. carafa malt
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1056, #1272 or White Labs California or California V Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Columbus) & boil 40 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Cascades) & boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Cascades) & immediately cut heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20-30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Crush up the left-over hop pellets (1/2 oz. Cascades) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
  

- Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the left-over hop pellets (1/2 oz. Cascades) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment 3 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
1. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.015 (or less). If it is more than 1.018, do not bottle until you call us!
2. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
3. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks. This is a fast maturing recipe, reaching peak flavor at 2 - 3 weeks.  It may become smoother with additional aging.
4. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 12 lbs. domestic special pale malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. dark crystal malt
• 1 oz. carafa malt
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Cascades hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:   Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1056, #1272 or White Labs California or California V Ale Yeast
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

DeFalco's Big Ass Texas Brown Ale

• 7 lbs. amber malt extract
• 1 lb. domestic special pale malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/4 lb. Biscuit malt
• 1/4 lb. Aromatic malt
• 1/4 lb. chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Amarillo hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 ale yeast (White Labs California or California V or Wyeast #1056, #1272)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Amarillo) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Fuggles) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Cascades) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If you are using dried yeast, we suggest you first rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60oF).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.020 or less. Crush up the dry hop pellets (1/2 oz. Cascades) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the dry hop pellets (1/2 oz. Cascades) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 3 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.015 (or less). If it is more than 1.019, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 11 1/2 lb. domestic special pale malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. dark crystal malt
• 1/4 lb. Biscuit malt
• 1/4 lb. Aromatic malt
• 1/4 lb. chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Amarillo hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (dry hop)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• 1 pkg. Safale US-05 ale yeast (White Labs California or California V or Wyeast #1056, #1272)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 7 lbs. dark malt extract
• 14 oz. roast unmalted barley
• 1/2 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. flaked barley
• 1/2 lb. domestic two row pale malt
• 1 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Northern Brewer hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes hops (finishing)
• Yeast:    Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs Irish Ale or Wyeast #1084)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Target or Northdown) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Northern Brewer) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Willamettes) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20-30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60o (Add.001 for every 7o above 60oF).
6. If the temperature is less than 80o, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.013 or less. If it is more than 1.018, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months. Note that longer aging may result in a smoother taste.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 8 1/2 lbs. British Two-Row malt
• 2 lbs. flaked barley
• 1 lb. roast unmalted barley
• 1 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Northern Brewer hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes hops (finishing)
• Yeast:    Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 ale yeast or 2 pkgs. Coopers Ale Yeast
• Liquid - White Labs Irish Ale or Wyeast #1084)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 12 lbs. dark malt extract
• 1 lb. British pale ale malt
• 1/2 lb. roast unmalted barley
• 1/4 lb. Chocolate Malt
• 1/2 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. Belgian Special B Malt
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Brewer’s Gold hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. U.S. Goldings hops (finishing)
• Yeast:    Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast#1084, #1028 or White Labs Irish, British, English
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food if using tap water)
• 1/2 cup dark brown sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Columbus) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Brewer’s Gold) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1 oz. Goldings) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.  Try to get your wort down to the same temperature as you are planning to ferment at.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90°-100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower,it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110o will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.026 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
        FERMENTATION: Single Stage - We do not recommend single stage fermentation for a beer of this strength. If you must ferment using single stage fermentation, then allow wort to ferment for 10 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations. We do recommend that you reduce your priming sugar if using this method.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.022 or less. If it is more than 1.027, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least a month before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six months and lasts for at least a year. Longer aging will result in a smoother taste.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 22 lbs. Domestic Pale Ale malt
• 1/2 lb. roast unmalted barley
• 1/4 lb. Chocolate Malt
• 1/2 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. Belgian Special B Malt
• 1 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
v 1 oz. Brewer’s Gold hops (flavoring)
• 1 oz. U.S. Goldings hops (finishing)
• Yeast:    Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast#1084, #1028 or White Labs Irish, British, English
• 1/2 cup dark brown sugar (priming)

• 1 lb. Old Bavarian Munich Blend
• 5 lbs. light malt extract
• 2 lbs. domestic 2-row pale malt
• 1/2 lb. cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. Belgian Cara-Vienne malt
• 1/4 lb. Belgian Special B malt
• 1 oz. chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Glacier hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades or Crystal hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades or Crystal hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. water salts
• Yeast: Dried = 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California, or California V Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056, #1272
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Glacier) and boil 40 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Cascades or Crystal) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Cascades or Crystal) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20-30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90°-100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling, proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about the same as the figure above (or less). If it is more than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling further. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 1/2 lb. domestic two row pale malt
• 1 lb. Munich malt
• 1/2 lb. cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. Belgian Cara-Vienne malt
• 1/4 lb. Belgian Special B malt
• 1 oz. chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Glacier hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades or Crystal hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades or Crystal hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. water salts
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Safale US-05 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California, or California V Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056, #1272
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

DEFALCO'S SPARKLING AUSSIE GOLDEN ALE RECIPE

• 5 lbs. light malt extract
• 2 lbs. Domestic Special Pale malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 1 lb. (~ 2 1/4 cups) white sugar (add to end of boil)
• 1/2 oz. Pride of Ringwood or 2/3 oz. Clusters hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Glacier or Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Glacier or Fuggles hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast: Dried - 2 pkgs. Cooper's ale yeast or 1 pkg. Safale S-04
• Liquid - White Labs Australian, British Ale, California Ale, California V Ale, Burton Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1272, #1056, #1028, #1098
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food for tap water)
• 3/4 cup white table (or corn) sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1/2 oz. Pride of Ringwood or 2/3 oz. Clusters) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Glacier or Fuggles) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Glacier or Fuggles ) and immediately turn off heat. Now add the 1 lb. white table (or corn) sugar. Stir to dissolve.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. If using dried yeast, rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 62° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about the same as the figure above (or less). If it is more than 1.016, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 lbs. Domestic Special Pale malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 1 lb. (~ 2 1/4 cups) white sugar (add to end of boil)
• 1/2 oz. Pride of Ringwood or 2/3 oz. Clusters hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Glacier or Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Glacier or Fuggles hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast: Dried - 2 pkgs. Cooper's ale yeast or 1 pkg. Safale S-04
• Liquid - White Labs Australian, British Ale, California Ale, California V Ale, Burton Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1272, #1056, #1028, #1098
• 3/4 cup white table (or corn) sugar (priming)

DEFALCO'S BRITISH INDIA PALE ALE (IPA) RECIPE

• 7 lbs. light malt extract
• 2 lbs. British Two-Row Pale malt
• 1/2 lb. British Cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. British Medium Crystal malt
• 1 oz. Target hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Northdown or Wye Challenger hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (dry hop in fermenter)
• 1 cup Turbinado or light brown sugar (end of boil)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968 or WL Burton, British, Dry English
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 2/3 cup Turbinado or light brown sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Target) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. Northdown or Wye Challenger) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Kent Golding) and immediately turn off heat. At this point, add one cup brown sugar (or better yet, turbinado sugar).
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of luke- warm (90°-100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wort
7. and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
8. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
9. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Crush up the left-over hop pellets (1/2 oz. Kent Goldings) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
10. FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the left-over hop pellets (1/2 oz. Kent Goldings) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 3 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
11. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.014 (or less). If it is more than 1.018, do not bottle until you call us!
12. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immedi- ately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
13. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
14. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 12 lb. British Pale malt
• 1/2 lb. British Light Crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. British Medium Crystal malt
• 1 cup turbinado or light brown sugar (end of boil)
• 1 oz. Target hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. Wye Challenger or Northdown hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (dry hop in fermenter)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:ried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968 or WL Burton, British, Dry English
• 2/3 cup light brown sugar (priming)

• 8 1/2 lbs. light malt extract
• 2 lbs. Two-Row Pale malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. Medium Crystal malt
• 1 1/2 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. U.S. Goldings or Cascades hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz.Willamettes hops (dry hop in fermenter)
• 1 cup light brown sugar (end of boil)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California V, California Ale, Dry English or Wyeast #1272, #1056
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 2/3 cup light brown sugar priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168o) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 1/2 oz. Columbus) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 oz. U.S. Goldings or Cascades) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Willamettes) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7°above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75° F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.022 or less. Crush up the dry hop pellets (1/2 oz. Willamettes) into a powder and add to bottom of the secondary fermenter then syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 4 days. Then, crush up the dry hop pellets (1/2 oz. Willamettes) into a powder, remove airlock, crack pail lid open just enough to pour hop powder in. Allow to ferment and settle 3 more days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step#9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.017 (or less). If it is more than 1.020, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 15 lbs. Two-Row Pale malt
• 1/2 lb. British Light Crystal malt
• 1/2 lb. Medium Crystal malt
• 1 1/2 oz. Columbus hops (bittering)
• 1 oz. U.S. Goldings hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1/2 oz.Willamettes hops (dry hop in fermenter)
• 1 cup light brown sugar (end of boil)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:   Dried - 1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California V, California Ale, Dry English or Wyeast #1272, #1056
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 2/3 cup light brown sugar priming)

• 6 lbs. light malt extract
• 1 1/2 lb. pale malt
• 1/2 lb. cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1 oz. Centennial or Perle hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:Dried - 1 pkg. Safale US-05, Mangrove Jack's West Coast, or Danstar BRY-97 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1056, #1272 or White Labs California or California V Ale Yeast
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Centennial or Perle) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Cascades) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Cascades) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. If using dried yeast, rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. It should read 1.050 - 1.052.  Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°F, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110°F will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 62° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.012 (or less). If it is more than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immedi- ately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 10 lb. domestic two row pale malt
• 1/4 lb. cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. medium crystal malt
• 1 oz. Centennial or Perle hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:Dried -1 pkg. Safale US-05, Mangrove Jack's West Coast, or Danstar BRY-97 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1056, #1272 or White Labs California or California V Ale Yeast
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)