• 4 lbs. amber malt extract
• 1/2 lb. British Mild ale malt
• 1/2 lb. British Brown malt
• 1/2 lb. British medium crystal malt
• 1 lb. British dark crystal malt
• 2 oz. pale chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Fuggles hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Goldings, Fuggles or Willamettes hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Goldings, Fuggles or Willamettes hops (finishing) 
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1098, #1968 or White Labs English, British, Burton)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food - for tap water)
• 1/2 cup corn/brown sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Fuggles) and boil 40 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Goldings, Fuggles, or Willamettes) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Goldings, Fuggles, or Willamettes) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of luke- warm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.  For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to 1.013 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.008 (or less). If it is more than 1.014, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. This is a fast maturing beer, reaching peak flavor in 2 - 3 weeks, although it may become smoother with additional aging.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 6 lbs. British mild ale or pale ale malt
• 1/2 lb. British Brown Malt
• 1/2 lb. British medium crystal malt
• 1 lb. British dark crystal malt
• 2 oz. pale chocolate malt
• 1 oz. Fuggles hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Goldings, Fuggles or Willamettes hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Goldings, Fuggles or Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1098, #1968 or White Labs English, British, Burton)
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup brown sugar

DEFALCO'S BODDY BITTER RECIPE

• 6 lbs. light malt extract
• 1/2 lb. British Pale malt
• 1 lb. British light crystal malt
• 1 oz. U.K. Fuggles or 2/3 oz. Wye Challenger hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968,#1275,#1335,#1318 or White Labs British, Burton, English, Dry English or London Ale Yeast)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup corn (or turbinado) sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. U.K. Fuggles or 2/3 oz. Wye Challenger) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Kent Golding) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Kent Golding) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. If using dried yeast, rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 63° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.011 (or less). If it is more than 1.016, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about four or five weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 8 1/2 lb. British Pale malt
• 1 lb. British light crystal malt
• 1 oz. U.K. Fuggles hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing) 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968,#1275,#1335,#1318 or White Labs British, Burton, English, Dry English or London Ale Yeast
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 7 lbs. light malt extract
• 1/2 lb. cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. British Medium Crystal
• 1/2 lb. aromatic malt
• 1/2 lb. wheat malt
• 1/2 lb. German Melanoidin malt
• 1 oz. Chocolate malt
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 oz. Kent Goldings hops (bittering)
• 1 1/2 oz. Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles hops (finishing)
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 ale yeast or Windsor Ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs Irish Ale, British, English or Wyeast #1084, #1098, #1968
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food - for tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Kent Golding) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1 1/2 oz. Fuggles) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Fuggles) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.011 (or less). If it is more than 1.016, do not bottle until you call us!
9. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
10. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
11. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 1/2 lbs. British Pale malt
• 1/2 lb. cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. British Medium Crystal
• 1/2 lb. aromatic malt
• 1/2 lb. wheat malt
• 1/2 lb. German Melanoidin malt
• 1 oz. Chocolate malt
• 1 pkg. Burton Water Salts
• 1 oz. Kent Goldings hops (bittering)
• 1 1/2 oz. Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles hops (finishing)
• Yeast:    Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 ale yeast or Windsor Ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs Irish Ale, British, English or Wyeast #1084, #1098, #1968
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 6 lbs. light malt extract
• 1/2 lb. British Pale malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 2/3 - 1 oz. Target, Northdown or Wye Challenger hops (bittering -medium to medium high bitterness)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968,#1275,#1335,#1318 or White Labs British, Burton, English, Dry English or London Ale Yeast)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (2/3 - 1 oz. Target, Northdown or Wye Challenger) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Kent Golding) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Kent Golding) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. If using dried yeast, rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.  For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 63° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.011 (or less). If it is more than 1.016, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about four or five weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 8 1/2 lbs. British Pale malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 2/3 - 1 oz. Target, Northdown or Wye Challenger hops (bittering -medium to full bitterness)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing)
• 2 pkgs. Burton water salts (one in the mash, one in the sparge water)
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968,#1275,#1335,#1318 or White Labs British, Burton, English, Dry English or London Ale Yeast)
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 6 lbs. amber malt extract
• 1 lb. British pale ale malt
• 1/2 lb. Special B malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 2 oz. chocolate malt
• 2/3 oz. Northdown or Wye Challenger hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles or Willamettes hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles or Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1098, #1968 or White Labs English, British, Burton)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup brown sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (2/3 oz. Northdown or Wye Challenger) and boil 40 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Fuggles or Willamettes) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Fuggles or Willamettes) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of luke- warm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.012 (or less). If it is more than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. This is a fast maturing beer, reaching peak flavor in 2 - 3 weeks, although it may become smoother with additional aging.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 lb. British pale ale malt
• 1/2 lb. brown malt
• 1/2 lb. Special B malt
• 1 lb. medium crystal malt
• 2 oz. chocolate malt
• 2/3 oz. Northdown or Wye Challenger hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles or Willamettes hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Fuggles or Willamettes hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale S-04 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1098, #1968 or White Labs English, British, Burton)
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup brown sugar (priming)

• 4 lbs. light malt extract
• 1 1/2 lb. British Pale malt
• 3/4 lb. medium crystal malt
• 2/3 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968,#1275,#1335,#1318 or White Labs British, Burton, English, Dry English)
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup corn (or turbinado) sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (2/3 oz. Target or Northdown) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Kent Goldings) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Kent Goldings) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast. If you are using dried yeast, while the wort is cooling, rehydrate it by sprinkling the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.014 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.009 (or less). If it is more than 1.014, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about four weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 7 lb. British Pale malt
• 3/4 lb. medium crystal malt
• 2/3 oz. Target or Northdown hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Safale S-04 or Windsor ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968,#1275,#1335,#1318 or White Labs British, Burton, English, Dry English)
• 1/2 - 2/3 cup corn (or turbinado) sugar (priming)

• 6 lbs. light malt extract
• 1 lb. domestic two-row pale malt
• 1/2 lb. Belgian Cara-pils or German Light Crystal (Cara-Foam) malt
• 1 oz. Tettnager or Cascades hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried -1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California or German Ale Yeast or Wyeast #1056, #1007
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food, if using tap water)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160°-170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Tettnanger or Cascades) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90°-100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
   FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about1.011 (or less). If it is more than 1.016, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 1/2 lbs. domestic two row pale malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 1 oz. Tettnager or Cascades hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried -1 pkg. Nottingham or Safale US-56 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1056, #1272 or White Labs California or California V Ale Yeast
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 6 lbs. light malt extract
• 1/2 lb. Cara-Vienne malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-Munich malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. Munich malt
• 1/4 lb. Biscuit malt
• 2 oz. Chocolate malt
• 2/3 oz. Willamettes or Glacier hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings or Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings or Fuggles hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor ale or Safale US-05 yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California Ale, California V or Wyeast #1056, #1272 yeast
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat & add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stove top. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1 oz. Willamettes or Glacier) & boil 40 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings or Fuggles ) & boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Goldings or Fuggles) & immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. While the wort is cooling, rehydrate the dried yeast. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of luke- warm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add.001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80°, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor (if using tap water) into the wort and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 60° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2 - 3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.012. If it is more than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling further. Peak flavor should be reached about four or five weeks and lasts several months.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 9 lb. domestic two row pale malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-Vienne malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-Munich malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 1/2 lb. Munich malt
• 1/4 lb. Biscuit malt
• 2 oz. Chocolate malt
• 2/3 oz. Willamettes or Glacier hops (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings or Fuggles hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. U.S. Goldings or Fuggles hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast:  Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - White Labs California Ale, California V or Wyeast #1056, #1272 yeast
• 3/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

• 5 lbs. light malt extract
• 1 lb. brewery grade corn syrup
• 2 lb. Domestic Six-Row malt
• 1/2 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 2/3 oz. Clusters hop pellets (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1056, #1007, #1335 or White Labs California, California V, Dry English
• 1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
• 7/8 cup corn sugar (priming)

1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160° - 170° and turn off the heat. Add the bag of grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot tap water (ideal temperature 168°) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.
2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (2/3 oz. Clusters) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Cascades) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz. Cascades) and immediately turn off heat.
3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20 - 30 minutes in the cooling bath.
4. If using dried yeast, rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of lukewarm (90° - 100°F) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.
5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures above 60° (Add .001 for every 7° above 60°F).
6. If the temperature is less than 80o, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wortand place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower, it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110° will most likely kill your beer yeast.
7. For best results, ferment at 62° - 75°F.
8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head subsides (2 - 4 days) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less. Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary with water to within 2-3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
       FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations.
9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.012 or less. If it is more than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!
10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for ease in filling.
11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks before chilling. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks and lasts several months. Note that longer aging may result in a smoother taste.
12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!

• 5 lb. Domestic Two-Row malt
• 4 lb. Domestic Six-Row malt
• 1 1/2 lb. Flaked Maize
• 1/4 lb. Cara-pils malt
• 2/3 oz. Clusters hop pellets (bittering)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (flavoring)
• 1/2 oz. Cascades hops (finishing)
• 1 pkg. Burton water salts
• Yeast: Dried - 1 pkg. Windsor or Safale US-05 ale yeast
• Liquid - Wyeast #1056, #1007, #1335 or White Labs California, California V, Dry English
• 7/8 cup corn sugar (priming)